TASTING NOTES

BALBLAIR 1997 VINTAGE

Time now for Grainmash to return to the Scottish Highlands, and this time sample a dram of Balblair 1997 Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky. This is a Vintage 1997, distilled in 1997 and bottled in 2007, therefore making it a 10 year old. Math – not my strong point, but not tested.

Why is it, after half a dozen meetings and interviews I feel compelled to say “dram” rather than snifter, swig or sample? Is it out of the growing respect for an industry less immediate than the web – where some men distil whisky in full knowledge that they are laying down barrels they will not live to see mature. The industry has an earthly humanity to it. Perhaps that is why.

The Balblair website tasting notes tell me to sniff for pineapple, apricot and lemon, prepare for oak, raisins, spice and sweet vanilla on the palate, and enjoy a long creamy-smooth finish. Dave Broom sensed marzipan on the palate – while Mr. Motley refers to custard, cinnamon and banana. As I am “liking the sound” of this, that’s enough from the professionals. It’s my turn.

What the distillery is saying is that “age” is not the defining characteristic for their “Vintage” label. Instead, they are saying that a particular whisky, from a particular year, in a particular wood, reaches its moment at a particular time, and only when they are satisfied that theirs has done just that will they bottle it under their “vintage” label. Some other years may take longer to mature for example.

Now that may start sounding like a croc – and there is a croc about! What I am saying is this – there’s a massive amount of marketing wrapped around many whiskies these days, and Balblair is no exception with the “crocodile silhouette” vista on the blued landscape packaging. Hats off to the design agency – nice touch - but now the whisky must ultimately speaks for itself.

This one reminded me of a fireplace at first, not lit but white ashen dust and embers the morning after, before the sweetness swept away the hearth. And now, it is delicious. I have to confess I slightly burned my tongue tonight on some hot roast chicken drumsticks with Nando’s Medium Peri-Peri sauce, which may not be the perfect preparation for tasting notes, but may also be quite the perfect foundation.

This is a medium light amber whisky, gentle on the tip of my tongue, wholesome and gripping on my palate – am i just enjoying the alcoholic nurse – and absolutely delicious. I am truly very glad I tried you, Balblair Vintage 1997, 10 year old Highland Single Malt! You’re a mighty fine Scotch whisky. You leave me feeling like I just had my dessert, and a wonderful dessert at that. Perhaps even custard, and cream, and perhaps even toffee – I want to try you with a rhubarb crumble – cream or custard, I am really not fussed.

And now to a confession. It is February 14th. I am home alone with my dog Gulliver. Niki is still away - in Cape Town again and threatening to bring back another sample of Three Ships because I’ve got to the point where I think the one I first tried must have been “off”. But the confession is that I only have a 5cl, a 50ml, sample of this, and it has almost gone already. I am putting this one in my Jura 10 folder – a fabulous introduction to the Balblair whisky – and I wish I had just one more 50ml dram to see me through the evening. Happy Valentine’s Day, and thank you Balblair Vintage 1997, that was a very sweet kiss. See you later, alligators!

© 2009 GrainMash.