OTHER GRAINS

JAPAN VS SCOTLAND BLIND WHISKY TASTING

War was declared by Japan on Scotland, the declaration being issued by Japanese whisky importer Number One Drinks Limited and challenge met by the Her Majesty’s own Berry Bros brigade. Very kindly, Boisdale offered an arena, and some exquisite blotting paper for what promised to be an increasingly heavy battle.

Four blinding rounds of “toe to toe” whisky pairings meant a draw was always a possible gentlemanly outcome, whilst 19 judges ensured each round would have an outright winner. The rules of war were slightly less ruthless than those of Battle Royale - each judge scored A or B their favourite whisky in each pairing, before guessing which was Japanese and which was Scottish.

As the menu illustrates, Hibiki 17 played Cutty Sark 18 in a gentle 43% aperitif. Not quite an even contest but an intriguing one. The Japanese kid’s elder brother (Hibiki 30) recently won “World’s Best Blended Whisky, but Japan has hardly the same “swapping” culture or range of distilleries as Scotland, so Cutty Sark blenders have far greater choice of ingredients. Hibiki 17 edged it with a gentler sweetness on the Grainmash scorecard, and emerged a 12:7 winner in the minds of the 19 judges. Japan one, Scotland nil.

Up came smoked salmon and the bell sounded for round two, another battle of the blended malts, as the ABV bar was raised 45.6% playing 46% as Blue Hanger 4th Release squared up to Gingko Blended Japanese Malt Whisky. This time, it was the Scots whose predecessor had scooped medals, namely the Best Blended Malt in the World Whisky Awards.

In the largest margin of victory of the night, Berry Bros’ blend of “Speysides” ran away winners 13:6. Grainmash concurred with the judges’ scorecards – it was rugby versus football in terms of the shape of these whiskies, rugby showing its muscle - and honours evened us into the meat of the night.

Steak arrived with mash, and it was spectacular! The Nikka Yoichi 10 growled darkly into position. The lighter Caol Ila could easily have been mistaken for a weakling, but looks deceived as a pale 58.9% outgunned a meagre 45% in the what was the largest colour and strength mismatch of the night. Light and strong Islay edged out the dark northernmost Japanese 10 points to 9 in a closely fought round which, on Grainmash’s scorecard, was absolutely stolen by the rib eye! Make no mistake, Boisdale’s food was delicious, and the steak was absolutely fantastic. Eat there some time, if you are in Belgravia!

With Scotland back in front, two to one and one to play, the fight and flight grew heavier, a strong blue cheese ringside for the showdown of the night, the top of the bill heavyweight contest. Berry’s Own Mortlach 1991, aka “Lord of Dufftown”, Single Cask 56.4% stepped boldly into the ring to claim outright victory for Scotland. But Japan stood firm, and fronted up with Karuizawa 1992 Single Cask 61.5%. Cask strength whisky went head to head, with Japan enjoying a clear 5% weight advantage. These whiskies were the real deal. Khrushchev played Kennedy, missiles were locked and loaded. There was far more than bragging rights at stake now.

The Japanese was the far more serious of the final pairing, and given the 6 generous hand poured whiskies that had gone before, Grainmash opted for the less potent Mortlach in the only break taken from the judges’ decision. All done, and with strong coffee much needed, the Karuizawa took the final round 12:7 and levelled the score. Peace was restored between Japan and Scotland as the scoreboard ended up a respectable Bishop Desmond - two-two.

Honours even, a rematch was discussed. Grainmash stayed on to survey the damage, and was very kindly handed the lovely Cutty Sark 18 year old to take back to HQ. Before leaving, we heard a lovely story about a young lady who felt “daring” and asked an older gentleman at the bar to buy her a large Macallan 1946 because her father was born that year. After laying the dare, she sauntered off to the loos. The gentleman (who was a regular at Boisdale) was advised by the barman about the £625.00 price tag (it is the most expensive of the 115 different whiskies available at Boisdale) and so requested that a large Black Bush was prepared instead. It was presented to the young lady upon her return as her whisky of choice.

All’s fair in love and war.

© 2009 GrainMash.